Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city comes as no surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently characterized its essence: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their children are unwilling to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to explore these tales and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
